VERA WANG FW 11/12 Pre-Fall

Greater experimentation in this collection. Fabrics are cleverly exploited to create overlays, contrast and very architectural forms. Cuts, drapes and asymmetries are so gorgeous, and the patchwork constructions are very couture. The colour palette is primarily black, although the collection is interrupted by a few pieces more clearly on. Designs in relief, applications of beads and petals on the fabrics. Beautiful leather  sandals with platform wearing only with Paris ribbed wool socks. A lot of leather for gloves, sleeves of coats and ultra-slim pants. The lines are not only straight and tight, there are also balloon and trapezoidal shapes that don't force the body even through the use of materials such as satin and silk.

BURBERRY FW 11/12 Pre-Fall

Christopher Bailey for Burberry creates an uptown woman collection, not too elegant. He revisited again  some of the cornerstones of the fashion brand. The use of fur for skirts, shoulders, borders, hems and entire coats is exaggerated. The colour palette is mostly dark. Lines are very tight and tapered: ultra-slim pants and trench coats cinched at the waist by bodices. We have already seen chez Burberry the tight black leather stiletto cuissards. So nothing new: Bailey did another review. Perhaps someone should advise the fashion designer try to invent something new without consulting Burberry archive (just for once).

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION FW 11/12 Pre-fall

Francisco Costa designed a monastic collection almost totally black and white, only the last outfit colours are more earthy. Basic, clean and minimized. This minimal collection is hidden behind a careful study of the lines and a wealth of materials (wool crepe, flannel, cashmere, silk, shearling, leather and suede). Few pieces and any accessories except shoes: suede sandals with platform and ankle strap. Very strict and austere collection, but very chic.

CHANEL FW 11/12 Pre-Fall

Karl Lagerfeld entitled this collection Paris-Byzance. The set refers to the Byzantine world with its mosaics, decorations and opulence. Everything is so damn gold (too much): from the set to clothes. Embroideries, precious stones and feathers; everything is dazzling. Fabrics are opulent too: brocade, velvet, lace and chiffon, but also wool, textured wool and tweed. The bodies are wrapped in precious cocoons. Accessories are very ornate: clutches, leather belts with jeweled buckles, brocade handbags, suede cuissards with gold broches; and then necklaces, bracelets and little crowns. Very rich collection, but definitely too much to be a pre-fall; also too many outfits: 63!

HELMUT LANG FW 11/12 Pre-Fall

The collection, minimal at first sight, is very elaborate with regard to a study of drapes on fluid fabrics that softly caress the body. The asymmetry is the mood of collection, it reigns in the necklines, shoulders, draping and above all hemlines. Colours are natural and basic: black, dove grey, olive green, white and grey; prints are not missing but in neutral tones. The contrast between fabrics (jersey, silk and satin) and black leather are gorgeous. Ankle socks and leather booties.