Balmain Goodbye

It's now official: Christophe Decarnin leaves Balmain. The French designer, who became the creative director at the fashion house in 2007 masterminded its success with a mix of rock-chic beloved by French media, particularly by Vogue's ex editor-in-chief, Carine Roitfeld; has decided to leave the fashion world. The parting of the ways between Balmain and Decarnin was expected: the designer was not at the f/w 2011-2012 fashion show as the result of a serious episode of depression. It seems that a designer from the in-house team will take his place, while Melanie Ward's styling has been reconfirmed.

Rico "Zombie Boy" for Mugler

Rico Genest was noticed at Nicola Formichetti's fashion shows for Thierry Mugler. The all over tattoed model, photographed by Mariano Vivanco, is the new face of the Mugler's menswear campaign.

VOGUE PARIS, April 2011

This is the historic number that will inaugurate the new era of Vogue Paris: the first issue directed by Emmanuelle Alt. On the cover, Gisele Bundchen photographed by the Dutch duo Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin with a dentelle white dress of the Dolce & Gabbana spring/summer 2011 collection.

LOUIS VUITTON F/W 2011-2012

Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton sent on the catwalk a provocative show inspired by the Liliana Cavani's movie "Il portiere di notte". Dominating sado-chic models, 40s silhouettes with big shoulders and the patent corset belt at the waist, flared skirts below the knee. Double-breasted coats and jackets, tight skirts with many transparencies. Peaked cap and high-heeled shoes in patent leather. The Lockit bag is made in countless variations often tied up with handcuffs (in 18k gold and studded with diamonds) to the models' wrists.

CHANEL F/W 2011-2012

YVES SAINT LAURENT F/W 2011-2012

Stefano Pilati puts his hand on the YSL archives and mixed elements from the early 60s to the late 70s, with an accent on tailoring. Austere and a bit retro woman wearing double-breasted jackets, pleated skirts, couture capes, chubby blousons very YSL, halter dresses with bias skirts and halter tops worn with huge skirt pants. By evening pure white dresses with gold chain belts to cinch the waist.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI F/W 2011-2012

Giambattista Valli works masterfully couture shapes and makes them very young. The base-shape is the short and sleeveless dress, figured and proposed in multiple versions, always keeping the essential characteristic of the Italian fashion designer. Applications of fur and contrasting fabrics for the day, for the evening regal dresses with long, full skirts. Touch of romantic femininity with sequins, frills and jais embroidery.

CHLOE F/W 2011-2012

Fluid and feminine lines, soft silhouette, a touch of vintage and a romantic look for the Hannah McGibbons' collection for Chloé. A real animalier obsession: a lot of python prints and snakeskin, used abundantly on dresses, coats, shoes and bag. Loose pants and collarless blouses, ponchos in knit and cloth patchwork are amazing.

HERMES F/W 2011-2012

It was the first collection designed by Christophe Lemaire for Hermès, sophisticated, inspired by the Eastern nomadic populations, without being rudely folk, indeed it's luxurious and elegantly colored. A very traditional collection, not too innovative; but Lemaire has proven to have the familiarity needed to interpret the codes of the French fashion house.