GABRIELE COLANGELO F/W 2011-2012

As usual, Gabriele Colangelo offers for his collection a strong research on materials and processes that allow to obtain effects inspired by Alberto Burri's art. Colangelo assembles very worked and heterogeneous materials, textures, torn, felted and corroded fabrics, in unique colors from red lava to malachite green. Straight and linear shapes, with a male touch on jackets and trousers. Straight skirts, with contrast veils, simple coats with fur inserts on the back. An elegant style, very faithful to the original mood, despite the difficulty to propose a hermetic fashion.

J.W. Anderson F/W 2011-2012 Preview Film

Jonathan William Anderson presents his latest winter 2012 collection through a video directed by Ben Toms and filmed on Super 8, inspired by youth and freedom. The Irish new talent, class of 1984, wants to create a new image and blends femininity and sophistication with a multitude of textures and colors.

AltaRomAltaModa ELISA PALOMINO

The wonderful Elisa Palomino's collection, presented during the latest edition of AltaRoma, is inspired to the geisha Sada Yacco, who became the first female actress of Japan. Palomino sends on the catwalk gorgeous interpretations of kimono, soft colors, prints and embroideries that combine the four seasons flowers: iris, wisteria, chrysanthemums and plum blossoms. Silks and brocades are luxurious, while the leather black coat and silk duvet are beautiful.

0044 Paris

Japanese Seiichiro Schimamura decided to moved in Paris and set up his label. The designer has been working on 0044 for over ten years, but in 2003 he developed the label commercially, creating both a mens and womens line on a seasonal cycle, with an overall theme described as Revolutionary Romanticism.

Clothes have a laid back feel, with draped fabrics and a looser fits. Despite the relaxed shapes, the look is very defined: 0044 Paris has dark mood fitted around a softer silhouette. Elements of traditional tailoring sit alongside the more deconstructed, with oversizing and layering appearing throughout. For the s/s 2011 collection floral prints contrasting against a darker color palette.

0044's flagship Paris shop is located in the Marais, which opened in March 2005. Flowers and a Siberian Woolly Mammoth skull form an unexpected juxtaposition, creating an intriguing and original beauty and inviting visitors to reflect upon life, death, extinction and renewal and how we can create a new aesthetic throught the marriage of opposites.  

AltaRomAltaModa (es)* Artisanal by FABRIZIO TALIA

The dress is still a mask, it hides harmonies still buried, but ready to be brought back to their brilliance with a new craft: this is the Fabrizio Talia's mood for (es)* Artisanal.
The fashion designer brings harmony to the chaos. Fabrics regain the identity of the female body. The use of leather evokes the primordial clothe, the dress becomes a symbiotic moment between body and soul.

The light fabrics emphasize the shapes of the female body, stroking movements and supporting the dynamic expression. The Talia's woman indulges in frivolity and whim, she does so according to the classical rules of harmony and proportions, elegance and refinement. The extravagance of hats and turbans, designed Justin Smith, famous hat designer from London, add to each piece an extra touch of irony, necessary to lighten the solemnity of strict stylistic research.

AltaRomAltaModa

Haute Couture Fashion Shows in Paris ended. Today, January 28, and for 5 days, Rome is the seat of Haute Couture. The AltaRomAltaModa's schedule is full of shows, historical names and new talents, but also events, encounters, presentations, exhibitions, parties and happenings.

Here are some scheduled events:

- AI, Artisanl Intelligence, presentation of the first AltaRoma's magazine which speaks of craftsmanship and Made in Italy.

- Fashion on Paper, Festival dedicated to publishing fashion, where fashion is a meeting place of music, art and design.

- Limited/Unlimited, exhibition of 42 new talents' limited edition collections.

- La moda è un romanzo, Stile ed eleganza nei capolavori della letteratura. Presentation of Fabiana Giacomotti's essay.

- (es)* ARTISANAL by Fabrizio Talia, the guest designer of AltaRoma will present a collection that pays tribute to high craftsmanship. The mood of his searching work is embodied in a video that glorifies chaos and the Nietzsche's thought: "one have must chaos within oneself to give birth to a dancing star".

For the whole schedule of AltaRoma http://www.altaroma.it/

ANDREA INCONTRI @ PITTI

Andrea Incontri made his debut at Pitti with a sophisticated capsule collection for him and her.In addition to the collection, there are accessories made in precious materials characterized by a versatile use (from shoulder work bags to various sizes bags, from maxi weekenders to clutch).

By creating unisex pieces, the designer gave his clothes soft shapes, often oversized, plus a strong vintage characterization in materials and cuts. Fabrics were revisited, such as high waist pants for her with pleats, the material has been felted, making it much heavier. His garments are so simple, minimal and enveloping; they are "out-of-size". Colours are mainly earthy (brown and burgundy), but also black, white and grey.

Inevitable accessories! The belt redefines the shapes, while the bags have pockets and cases for multiple uses.

It's a very sophisticated collection! Andrea Incontri cares of details and craftsmanship, it's a retro elegance that gives importance to unique.

ACIDLAB Wings_Of_The_Phoenix

art direction by ACIDLAB

directed by MARTINA SCORCUCCHI

edited by FELICE V. BAGNATO

model: MICHELA D'ANGELO

powered by CO3

FABIO QUARANTA MENSWEAR F/W 2011-2012

The Fabio Quaranta's menswear f/w 2011-2012, presented at Pitti Immagine Uomo in recent days, is a partnership between fashion and underground culture. The fashion designer drew inspiration from the Current 93 album "Aleph At Hallucinatory Mountain. Current 93 is a musical project which started as part of early 80s british avant-garde.

Fabio Quaranta's masculine man is not slave to the seasonal trends, his creations reject all that could be trendy or gaudy. Shirts everywhere, while the main pieces are jackets; all the garments are more interesting thanks to the wise use of small details, such roughly cut off trouser hems, contrast stitches on vents, shoulders and pockets.

The colour scale was mostly based on grey tones, while the best look consisted of a pleated floor-length skirt, white shirts and a leather waistcoat. Despite the constant presence of shirts, we saw also some basic T-shirts (the most daring colour was army green). Even a tweed jumpsuit was on catwalk.

Jonathan Saunders lifts the fortunes of Escada

After going in bankrupt in 2009 and have been bought by Megha Mittal, the German brand Escada has chosen the name of who should revive the line Escada Sport: Jonathan Saunders. The Scottish designer will present a 20-piece capsule collection in London and Paris next June 2011.

Jonathan Saunders is one of the best new talent in fashion, he has worked as Creative Director for Pollini, which has given a modern and fresh touch, and for his own clothing line under his belt. Saunders is acclaimed by critics because he proposes a casual femininity, very chic and dégagé. His colours are always very bright, and is very nice his study of the forms.

In 2010 Saunders won the title of Scottish Designer of the Year and now he is, with Nicholas Kirkwood, Matthew Williamson and Christopher Kane, the turning point for the British and international fashion.

Escada plays a good trump card!

Jonathan Saunders s/s 2011

Jonathan Saunders s/s 2011

Jonathan Saunders s/s 2011

BFC/Vogue FF: Finalists announced

From left: Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Richard Nicoll, Osman

The BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund is an important competition aimed to providing financial support for a talented British designer with a lot of potential for international growth. The winner will be awarded 200.000 £ and a custom-tailored professional development programme.

Finalists have just been announced: Charlotte Olimpia, Christopher Kane, E. Tautz, Jonathan Saunders, Nicholas Kirkwood, Osman, Peter Pilotto and Richard Nicoll. This list includes a lot of talents whose names are already know in the world of fashion. It will be difficult to choose the winner for the jury chaired by the editor of Vogue UK, Alexandra Shulman.

Nicholas Kirwood

It would be nice if the winner was Nicholas Kirkwood, great shoe designer. He is famous for the architectural quality of his designs and his innovative use of materials including devoré satin, hand-printed suede and leather, degradé fabrics, python, shaved stingray, laser-cut mirror leather, cobra and rubberised leather. He has created the best catwalk shoes for designer including Ghost, John Rocha, Erdem, Pollini and Rodarte.