A year of FASHION

What are the 10 events that marked the fashion world this year? For better or for worse here is what we remember of 2010.


1. February 11: Alexander McQueen dies.

2. December 18: Carine Roitfeld leaves Vogue Paris.

3. September 12: Tom Ford returns with a women's collection.

4. May 27: Jean Paul Gaultier leaves Hermès.

5. September: Prada comes to a "baroque minimalism" for the spring/summer 2011 women's collection.

6. November 23: In stores, Lanvin for H&M.

7. September 13: Nicola Formichetti is made creative director of Thierry Mugler.

8. September: Vogue Italy in 3D.

9. March 19: Silvia Venturini Fendi is appointed President of AltaRoma

10. 1970-2010: Kenzo celebrates 40 years.

OBSEDIA, the new obsession by Givenchy

A new line of bags called Obsedia will launch, in February, by Riccardo Tisci. The fashion designer, creative director of Givenchy since 2005, continues to assert his gothic taste adding to the classic black leather bag a clasp with a plexiglass cross and a metal ring.

Religious symbols like the cross are often used by Tisci to create his universe, so wonderfully dark and mysterious.

A Bathing Ape x Dr Martens

The most famous Japanese streetwear brand A Bathing Ape and Tet from WTPAS have collaborated with the epitome of British: the legendary boot brand Dr Martens. The result is a saddle shoe that was made popular by teenage "Bobby Soxers" in the 50s, and now it comes in three different colour combinations.

This kind of shoe is very standard and boring, however the collaboration "BAPE x Dr. Martens" gave to the saddle shoe an interesting twist.

ALBION TRINKETRY by Pete Doherty & Rose Forde

Pete Doherty and Rose Fonde has joined forces with English goldsmith Hanna Martin to create Albion Trinketry: a jewelry collection created by Doherty's obsession with antiques and trinkets, and Martin's approach to design.

Albion Trinketry is inspired by vintage style in Britain, when men wore three-piece suit, hat and pocket watch. Each piece reflects the past whilst also gives a nod to the future. The aim during the design process was to create collectables that will last the test of time and be handed down through the generations.

It's a collection of 15 pieces (including cufflinks, rings, pins and chains for the neck) made of oxidized silver, pink gold and black diamonds; each piece is finished by hand, using lengthy and traditional techniques that make each piece a true modern luxury.

YVES SAINT LAURENT SS 2011 Ad Campaign Preview

For the next ad campaign, Yves Saint Laurent didn't chose the model Daria Werbowy or black and white images. Arizona Muse will be the YSL spring/summer 2011 face; throughout 2010 she was considered a model to keep an eye on. Colour photography for the campaign is by Inez van Lamsweerde e Vinoodh Matadin, while the styling has been edited by Stefano Pilati that chose the gardens of Bled Roknine as a location, a Thirties style villa in Marrakech. 

This ad campaign is a tribute to the French fashion designer's love for the colours and the beauty of Marocco, where Saint Laurent took great inspiration for many of his collections.

All mad about new YSL "Muse Bag"!

YSL Muse is the more desirable "it bag", now a new and exclusive model was made by Stefano Pilati. It will be the undisputed star of the winter season in Gstaad, Switzerland. Conceived as unique piece, the queen of handbags will be put on display at the pop up store that Yves Saint Laurent is opening in December, 23rd at Grand Hotel Park in the famous skiing resort, now destination of international jet set. 

The new Muse Bag is a real treasure: it's made of black crocodile leather features 480 diamonds and is decorated with 18 kt gold. A deluxe version!

This it the way to feed the myth of a bag!

Marc Jacobs saves money on new ad campaign

S/S 2011 runway as the location for Marc Jacobs' new ad campaign by Juergen Teller.
Models are Masha Kirsanova and Caroline Brasch Nielsen.

As always, the advertising campaigns are a great way to promote a collection. But apparently, Marc Jacobs decided to save money and time on advertising for S/S 2011.

He chose to promote his clothes with pictures taken by photographer Juergen Teller during the brand's runway collection in New York. As a matter of fact, the pictures' background is the setting of Marc Jacobs' defilé of his S/S 2011 collection.

A well-organized campaign can revive the fortunes of a collection that it was not appreciated by the critics. The last Marc Jacobs' collection has not been greeted with a standing ovation. The American designer has brought us back to the 70's in a too self-referential way; he is convinced that the Seventies are the most desirable years for fashonistas. For this reason, we expected a powerful ad campaign treated in details; partly because Teller is a master of the camera and has always managed to make Jacobs' collection so attractive.

Publicity stunt to speak again of him? Maybe, considering that Mr. Jacobs loves when it comes to him (for better or for worse). The latest campaign for the male fragrance Bang makes clear that the designer is devoted to the worship of his person. Building on the fact that its brand is a winner, that its stores (which seem, in some ways, bazaar offering thousands of junk) are always overcrowded; Marc Jacobs has felt entitled to make a poor and not very attractive campaign, since the conviction to sell anyway.

"Bang" ad campaign

And he will continue to sell because behind his name, Marc Jacobs has built a status symbol, a vain and ephemeral world which today seems to be so fashionable...giving, however, another jab at the Fashion with the capital F.

BALENCIAGA SS 2011 Ad Campaign Preview

Steven Meisel signs the campaign for S/S 2011 punk collection of Nicholas Ghequière for Balenciaga. Gisele Bundchen, sporting a completely new look, is the model; she is accompanied by a male model named Yuri Pleskun wearing a ghoulish make up and little else.

Marie-Amélie styled the shoot, Pat McGrath took care of the make-up and Guido Palau was the hair-stylist. Paris-based graphic design duo M/M takes credit for a graphic layout, mixing crisp color images with vintage-looking black-and-white shots.

VERA WANG FW 11/12 Pre-Fall

Greater experimentation in this collection. Fabrics are cleverly exploited to create overlays, contrast and very architectural forms. Cuts, drapes and asymmetries are so gorgeous, and the patchwork constructions are very couture. The colour palette is primarily black, although the collection is interrupted by a few pieces more clearly on. Designs in relief, applications of beads and petals on the fabrics. Beautiful leather  sandals with platform wearing only with Paris ribbed wool socks. A lot of leather for gloves, sleeves of coats and ultra-slim pants. The lines are not only straight and tight, there are also balloon and trapezoidal shapes that don't force the body even through the use of materials such as satin and silk.

BURBERRY FW 11/12 Pre-Fall

Christopher Bailey for Burberry creates an uptown woman collection, not too elegant. He revisited again  some of the cornerstones of the fashion brand. The use of fur for skirts, shoulders, borders, hems and entire coats is exaggerated. The colour palette is mostly dark. Lines are very tight and tapered: ultra-slim pants and trench coats cinched at the waist by bodices. We have already seen chez Burberry the tight black leather stiletto cuissards. So nothing new: Bailey did another review. Perhaps someone should advise the fashion designer try to invent something new without consulting Burberry archive (just for once).

Carine Roitfeld leaves Vogue Paris

The news was given by http://www.vogue.fr/. After 10 years, Carine Roitfeld has decided to leave Vogue Paris to follow her personal projects. Under her leadership, and in a short time, the magazine had become a reference point for anyone. She gave to the magazine a new, sensual and Paris cut, thanks to her experience as a stylist and collaborations with the best photographer and fashion designer. Carine Roitfeld, Mario Testino and Tom Ford have made sensational fashion stories. Vogue Paris will miss her insight, talent and her editorials. A new era begins and it's not for the better.

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION FW 11/12 Pre-fall

Francisco Costa designed a monastic collection almost totally black and white, only the last outfit colours are more earthy. Basic, clean and minimized. This minimal collection is hidden behind a careful study of the lines and a wealth of materials (wool crepe, flannel, cashmere, silk, shearling, leather and suede). Few pieces and any accessories except shoes: suede sandals with platform and ankle strap. Very strict and austere collection, but very chic.

CHANEL FW 11/12 Pre-Fall

Karl Lagerfeld entitled this collection Paris-Byzance. The set refers to the Byzantine world with its mosaics, decorations and opulence. Everything is so damn gold (too much): from the set to clothes. Embroideries, precious stones and feathers; everything is dazzling. Fabrics are opulent too: brocade, velvet, lace and chiffon, but also wool, textured wool and tweed. The bodies are wrapped in precious cocoons. Accessories are very ornate: clutches, leather belts with jeweled buckles, brocade handbags, suede cuissards with gold broches; and then necklaces, bracelets and little crowns. Very rich collection, but definitely too much to be a pre-fall; also too many outfits: 63!

HELMUT LANG FW 11/12 Pre-Fall

The collection, minimal at first sight, is very elaborate with regard to a study of drapes on fluid fabrics that softly caress the body. The asymmetry is the mood of collection, it reigns in the necklines, shoulders, draping and above all hemlines. Colours are natural and basic: black, dove grey, olive green, white and grey; prints are not missing but in neutral tones. The contrast between fabrics (jersey, silk and satin) and black leather are gorgeous. Ankle socks and leather booties.